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Friday, 02 January 2009 |
Japon arkadaşımız Daisuke'nin Pakistan-Hindistan ve Nepal'den gönderdiği yazılarını ekte bulabilirsiniz.Daisuke Fotoğraflar Subject: Indian agressive boy > India is very exciting country to travel. The dramatic things happen > everyday. Mostly it is unpleasant things. I got accident yesterday. (I > put story on my web page) I fought against children today. I do not > know what happen for me tomorrow. Indian might kill me tomorrow..... > > Many Indian are very exciting to see foreigner man on the bicycle. > They call me so often, shout me, follow me by bike or by motorcycle. > Especially children do. 100 Indian people a day ask me "What is your > nationality?" "What is your name?" just for fun to them. I gave up to > answer. I ignore them to all the time. Some of them are angry to me... > > 5 children on the bicycle follow me in this afternoon. I ignored them. > Suddenly one boy griped my back bag. I kick his bike. He fell down on > the road. A strap of my bag was broken. I stopped and fix my bag. 2 > minutes later I was surrounded by 10 children. > > The boy who fell down on the road came to me and said "My bicycle was > broken. Give me 100 Rupees!" It was nothing broken. I ignored him and > continued to fix my bag. He punch my back. 10 children looked me. I > did not punch back to him. Just I explain them. Some children were not > his friend and said "You can go now." > > Merry Christmas dear cyclist, > I hope you have no big accident next year! > Take care of you, > Daisuke > > -- > just now...Bodhgaya,India(120th country):139,541 km http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: India cycling > Dear cyclist, > If you have some experience about cycle in India or if you hear from > someone about cycling India, let me know about accommodation. > > The price of accommodation in India is not so cheap. The price is > going up. Also it is not easy to find economy accommodation. Because > 1. Local Indian can not speak English or their English is very > difficult to understand. 2. Local people do not know cheap hotels > because they have never stay any hotels. 3. Taxi (riksher) drivers > always tell lie and they want to take their friend's hotel. > I do not have good guide book. Even lonely planet guide book does not > cover all Indian cities and towns. It spend a lot of times to find > place to stay everyday. > Some (many) unfriendly manager of Hotel charge 3-5 times more than > local price to foreigners. When I asked some hotels about price to > stay a night, the managers answer me 500Rs! (10 US dollar) Even small > and very dirty room! 500Rs, I can move 500 km by bus. 500km means 5 > days by bike. If I pay 500 Rs for 5 days cost 2500 Rs only for > sleep.....It is too much! It will be cheaper to travel by public > transportation in India!! > > Where is good place to sleep? I am not sure that camping is safe or > not ? When I slept Gas station, security man keep gun all night to > secure Gas station. It means many thieves are in India. > > -- > just now...Gwalior,India(120th country):138,873 km http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: Pamir Highway --- report from Salva Rodrigues > Dear cyclist, > I received e-mail about cycling report Pamir Highway, Central Asia > from Salva who is Spanish around the world cyclist.. It is very > popular place to cycle on the earth. I share his report to you. Enjoy > to read it! > Take care of you, Daisuke > > -- > just now...Delhi,India(120th country):138,418 km http://www.daisukebike.be > > ------------------------------- > From: salva rguez (salva2africa@yahoo.es) > > dear all, > > delicious food, beautiful scenery, clean air, comfortable > accomodation, and everything so cheap than even i can treat myself > here. i am in macleodganj, 10 kms uphill dharamsala, india. the very > wished rest has come true. but the way was not easy... > > after taskent i left my cyclist mates and went alone into kyrgyzstan, > i wanted to go to a remote area called chatkal valley. i was refused > at the closer border, so i took me almost 3 more days than i planned > to reach ala-buka (and almost a night jail with stupid juniors of the > army). > kyrgyzstan is a wonderful country for cyclists, i have met many, but > nobody there, almost no roads, often no bridges. few villages and > little food to buy but homemade bread. as it uses to be in this sort > of places, scenery is super, but i would say that it was the mix of > lonelyness-beauty what makes the wonder of the valley. little > development and lots of nature. > after that i turned eastwards. easy tarmac road to join the main road > osh-bishkek, but very soon the turn-off to song-kol is again a rough > road. > well, what can i say about this country? song-kol (a lake at 3000 m.), > issyk-kol, the glaciers road in the very east... it was a very very > good time, but exhausting. also the bicycle was damaged. i fixed it in > bishkek with the help of mr. anton, who is famous between long > distance cyclists. well, to be honest, i would not recommend him but > there was no option. his work was not good and he also did a bad job > with daisuke's bicycle some weeks later. > > to get a visa for tadjikistan is not easy here anymore: new consul. so > now, you need a LOI but still pamir permit is included in the 50$ visa > fee. > so with right papers i crossed the country to osh through the main > road which is very quiet and beautiful. there, in osh, i met a brave > cyclist who is trying to cross siberia in winter, mr. bastian > (bastiendemange@gmail.com), very nice guy, and a beautiful story. > i met mr. jan, a french cyclist travelling from singapour to france. > he asked me 'may i know you?', yes, i knew him as well... we met 14-16 > months ago in southafrica. he was backpacking and we had spoken. he > decided to do a trip by bicycle then! and.... more than a year later, > we met again in osh! incredible, i have become a man with a mission: > to spread cyclotourism! > > anyway, i left kyrgyzstan towards pamir. 2 more rough passes before > the order and a view of a lifetime: sarytash meadows. you just see > from east to west, in front of your tent, a huge white range with some > 6000 m peaks and the lenina peak (7000). really great. > the tayik border is after the pass, but still over 4000 m., and first > they gave me tea, biscuits and jam. when i recovered myself from the > effort, coldness and altitude, they asked me for the passport. very > good people. > > pamir was great, you know, this is one of the top ten places for > cyclists. but not so late. early october was very very cold. the wind > freezes you and somedays i could not cycle because of the storms. > still, the place is amazing. it remained me western tibet with these > huge glacier valleys. > i left the highway (which is mostly paved) to the wakhan valley. > people said also the highway is beautiful, i do not know. what i can > say is that whakhan has extremely bad road but is stunning. the views > of hindukush (7000), and all the snowed peaks, make you smile even if > you are breathless pushing through the stones or sand. there was > little food but homemade meals. but, if the weather is bad and no > views, i would suggest to take the highway road, you know, suffering > for nothing... > > i was lucky, the bad weather started when i arrived in khorog, end of > the valley. > from here, the road follows the amudarya canyon, between > afghanistan-tadjikistan, and it is also spectacular, sometimes very > rough and risky because slides. > when i jumped into the lowlands... well, end of the views but a relief > for my muscles. i was very tired. > > then i crossed to afghanistan, as you know because the last email. > just tell that finally my bicycle crossed with an afghan refugee, > thanks to mrs. hilde, and i flew with the red cross. so, my bicycle > and i met again in a photocopy shop at peshawar (hilde, my dear, i > still can believe it sometimes. it was very risky, but it worked... > you are great!). > i left peshawar the day some talibans killed a US worker in.. the same > street than red cross left me... > happy to leave such a funny area, i went to islamabad where the party > was waiting. i met daisuke there for the third time (addis abeba, > isphahan), www.daisukebike.be, and alvaro, for the second time (tehran > to taskent), www.biciclown.com. > > we have been cycling toguether until here, dharamsala, sharing jokes, > stories, plans for future, information, tips, and sometimes... even > the bed! it has been a big honour for me to be able to learn humanity > from the big japanese, but i was not successful in my attempt to teach > spanish sense of humour to daisuke! we have to cycle one more time > again, my friend, laddak next summer! > > and well, pakistan is not my favourite country. it is too polluted and > crowdy, but punjab in india was not better. even noisier. but at > least, you can see the half of the planet again: women! > then, straight to the mountains, which has little less traffic and > pollution. the rest is making me feel better slowly slowly and i have > a plan for next year. > despite the traffic and the indians, i will cycle down and up the > country, cross to nepal, and back to india in summer for cycling in > laddak. after monzoon, 2 months of trekking in nepal, and later i will > look for the chance to get a boat to thailand or malaysia from > calcutta. i know there are little posibilities but, hey, after the > mess leaving afghanistan, everything can be possible! > > well, some points about central asia mountains: > - kyrgyzstan was ok even september, most passes over 3000 m, it snows > from time to time but little, lower temperature -1 inside the tent. > - i strongly recommend chatkal valley (west) and the 'road' barskoon > pass (4000) to narym. is very off road or not a road at all. both > places you have to carry food for 4-5 days > - most cyclists go around issy-kol (east) and song-kol (center). very > beautiful sceneries and no problems with food or roads. > - roads...everything from nice tarmac to very light track on the > surface. up to you. russian maps are excellent. > - people... i did not like them too much. the men were always drunk. > the nomads are friendly but not as the mongolian or tibetans. > - about pamir, i would say october is not a good month but people said > bad weather can happen in july too. lower temperature -6 inside the > tent. mostly pamir over 4000 m. > - you have to carry food as much as you can (specially if you take > wakhan valley) and eat with locals when you have the chance in order > to save your own food. > - khorog and murghab are the two places to buy food, enough but basic supplies. > - water can be a problem in pamir highway. where there is a point > water, fill up all bottles. > - people in pamir and whakhan is excellent, very friendly and helpful. > > well, my friends, i hope you enjoy the next couple of weeks, merry > xmas and happy new year to all, i wish you a year full of good times. > with love, > salva >
Subject: Daisuke from Central Asia > Dear cyclists, how are you? > I am in Bishkek a capital city of Kyrgys, Central Asia. It is former > Soviet Union country and Muslim religion. People are seems friendly > but not very much. Some shopkeepers or restaurant charge me more price > than locals. When I went to Internet shop a 3 days ago, I forgot to > take back my USB cable and SD card from computer of the shop. I went > back 20 minutes later, but someone already took it. Many thieves are > at market, and polices often demand money from foreigner tourists. It > is nothing nice things to see in Bishkek. But many tourists come to > stay for a while to get visa of neighbour countries. I waited a week > to get Indian visa. I got 2 days ago. Pakistan embassy told me, if I > want to get Pakistan visa, I must wait 4 weeks.... Then I found my > bike need repair many parts. Front hub was totally broken, back rim > have many small cracks, Chane and front teeth also finished, and part > of flame and carrier need solder. It needs 2 days at bike shop. The > road of Central asia is no good!! I hope to start tomorrow with my > refresh bike if it is nice weather. > It is getting cold here from 2 weeks ago. And rain in this 3 days. I > will go to Osh, Kashgar, Hunza. Islamabad and then to India. I will go > up many more than 3000 m pass. I hope the road is open and not much > snow. > I met quite many cyclists during I stay at Bishkek about 10 days. > French, German, Japanese, Swiss, Taiwanese. I hope their safe travel. > All the best for you!! > Daisuke > > -- > just now...Bishkek,Kirghistan(135,586 km) http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: cycling in Afganistan > Dear friend, > I cycled down Karakorm highway. When I arrived campingsite in > Islamabad yesterday, my good Spanish friend Salva waited me. We could > meet 3rd time after at Ethiopia and Iran. He cycled to cross > Afganistan just before Pakistan. I am respect his cycle spirit and > courage. And I was very happy to his smile again because I was very > worry about he visited dangerous war country....Anyway we are enjoying > to talk many experiences each other.... I will share you about cycling > experience in Afganistan from Salva.... > I can say "Thanks very much Hilde to help Salva very well." Hilde is > my Belgium friend working at Kabul for her NGO education job. > We also met Alvaro who is biciclown very famous Spanish cyclist today. > www.biciclown.com > Daisuke > -- > just now...Islamabad, Pakistan(119th country):137.714 km > http://www.daisukebike.be > ---------------------------------------- > > from kabul > From: salva rguez (salva2africa@yahoo.es) > Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 8:48:04 AM > Dear all > > > > > As I promised last time from Tashkent, I will send you a report about > the trip next xmas, but since my very good friend Daisuke > (www.daisukebike.be) asked me for info about Afghanistan to share with > his cyclists list (and I cannot refuse anything to him), here you have > some lines about the experience in this broken country. By the way, my > friend Adam, polish, was cycling here as well in summer, he is now in > China. roborelanium@gmail.com > > > > > To get visa is easy at Khorog consulate (Tadjikistan), 30$, same > morning, 1 month stay, 3 months validity. It is said the embassy in > Dushanbe is difficult, and it was easy in Mashhad (Iran) but I heard > not anymore (this info is not direct, maybe can not be reliable). > > I crossed the border coming from Khorog-Kuliab-Pyang road (very bad > road last 30 kms, but is normal in Tadjikistan). No questions, no > hassle. At the afghan side was slower but friendly and I was invited > for lunch by the officials, and ended myself up sleeping at their > house, very generous and friendly people. Also unexpected first night > in the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan: vodka and marihuana! > > > > > To Kunduz is 60 kms through a desert with nothing but sand and ISAF > convoys patrolling. It is said is very safe. I had lunch in the > outskirts which later I was strongly advised not to do (4 people > killed 2 days before), but it was safe and most people were very kind > to me. Also few people looked at me not nicely but there is a % of > Afghans that they openly do not like foreigners at all. I experienced > the same 8 years ago, in Khohistan (Pakistan KKH), and they just look > at you very hardly but they will do nothing against you. > > All hotels asked for 20$, does not matter what they offer, so I had to > look for another kind of accommodation, but people around me never > invited me and I guess they are afraid of hosting a foreigner. > Eventually I got permission for free camping in an expensive hotel but > on the way, surprisingly, an English teacher invited me and I spent 2 > nights with him. It was very interesting because I could speak a lot > with him and the students, very good stories. > > > > > On the road to Salang tunnel, and later Kabul, I always slept with > police stations or restaurants, friendly people. Locals never invited > me to private home, again I guess they are scared by Talibans. Some > check points were worried about what I carried in my bags, but I was > always treated with a big respect, and in general they checked only > one bag and then realized I was a tourist. Most times they asked me > 'why are you cycling here? Are not you afraid?' and so. It is strongly > advised not to camp and not cycle at night. Daytime looks normal life. > > > > > Salang tunnel is a hard climb (from 1100 to 3400 in 40 kms), it was > snowed and beautiful. The tunnel itself is a trap of 3-4 km with no > light neither with ventilation; army people will stop a truck for the > bike and the cyclist. Still is not a nice experience. > > Road is always tarmac but very narrow and drivers do not mind cyclists > at all, they are not used at all. Food is much better than in > Tadjikistan, but sometimes only palau (rice, carrots, raisins, and > meat; 1'5 $); bread is always fresh and excellent. Water is safe, > mostly from pumps water, and pastries are delicious. > > > > > From 2000 meters altitude, it was quite cold at end of October, and > forget it after November. People is generally surprised but friendly, > not English spoken but few youngsters in towns. And often they did not > accept my money for food or meals. They always approached me asking > 'kuja meri?' (Where are you going?), but sometimes they asked me how > they can help me. > > > > > Kabul is not safe as you know but as I look like a poor afghan, I have > felt safe walking everywhere. In my opinion, for a humble tourist a > bad experience (kidnapped or killed) only would happen in case of very > bad luck, you know, wrong place-wrong time. > > > > > At the city check point they tried to scare me and checked all my > luggage, but a week before a British lady was shot from a motorbike. I > have been walking even after sunset, and my Belgium friends go often > for running with no problems, but things happen and kidnapping is > frequent, I was said, mostly in the morning. > > > > > Indian visa here is only 3 days waiting (65$, 6 months starting the > date they issue). Pakistan visa is not since summer (I was told > 'perhaps you will be refused'); I got only 15 days and it is not valid > to go by road because Khyber pass is forbidden and in war situation > right now. Of course, the southern crossing points are out of > question. > > > > > So, thanks to the tireless help of Mrs. Hilde (not my embassy, which > faces were absolutely shock-panicking when I said I was cycling here), > I have got a place with Red Cross aircraft to Peshawar, and my bicycle > plus luggage are on they way by land today with an afghan refugee, > friend of Mrs. Hilde. > > Thanks to Mr. Ken (very well-known man here, also cyclist, who was > involved in helping me just 1 minute later to know me), I almost send > my stuff with the Pakistan diplomats, but at the end they only offered > me to carry the bicycle because the customs. Anyway, we are sure it > will arrive tonight in Peshawar, inch allah. > > > > > Coming from Pakistan, I have no idea about visas and permits, but it > seems Pakistan is not likely going to issue permit for the tribal area > between Peshawar and the border for the moment. Also most embassies do > not issue letter of introduction for supporting application forms (as > Spanish, for instances) so, I guess it is easier to apply for Pakistan > visa in a country without your representation (here, when they asked > me about that, I lied saying there was not Spanish embassy and, it was > ok!) > > > > > Well, my friends, I am closer to a highly wished month of rest in > India. I am not only tired physically (very hard although stunning > Kirguistan-Tadjikistan), but mentally; I need to stay in a place for a > while without saying bye-bye everyday. > > > > > As everybody knows, cyclists we can travel long distances because > mostly this is a world full of good people, helpful and generous, that > support us in many ways. Sometimes giving water, sometimes > hospitality, shelter, whatever… so, I want to thank my friend Adam, > who gave me all the info I asked for and always answered quickly. > > > To Daisuke, the big master, who was very concern about my safety and > made the contact with Mrs. Hilde here (amigo, nos vemos en Islamabad). > > > To Mrs. Hilde, also cyclist, who hosts me, take care of me, feed me, > and tireless has found solutions to my shipping problems; the best I > can say is I have now a new very good friend. She is an angel. > > > To Mr. Ken, also cyclist, not only for his generosity but the huge and > spontaneous kindness to me; big man (my friend, I really appreciate > your help; it was coming from a big heart). > > > Oh, and thanks to Miguel, the policeman at the Spanish embassy, who > offered me a cup of tea since the diplomats were only thinking > 'please, leave the country as soon as possible and not make our life > complicated.' > > > > > I will write you on xmas about the stunning months in Central Asia mountains; > > With love > > salva > > ------------------------------------------------------ > Nov 12, 2008 3:03 PM > Dear Daisuke, > > It was a pleasure for me to have Salva in my house. > > Salva was very lucky,he left Kabul without big problem because > yesterday they killed an American in > University town in Peshawar, near the place where he arrived with the RED > Cross van. > > Take care all of you, > > Warmest wishes, > > > Hilde
Subject: Cycling information-Pakistan > Dear cyclist, > I send you some my picture about Pakistan and also some information. I > am with 2 Spanish cyclists right now. Alvaro also has website. He will > give you some more information. www.biciclown.com > biciclown@biciclown.com Salva does not have website. He cycled > Afghanistan. salva2africa@yahoo.es > We will go to Amritsal, Dalamsala together. Then we go different way. > If you have some information about accommodation or nice place to see > and so on, please let us inform. We will cycle northern India and > Nepal. Thanks! I put some new story on my website. > All the best! Daisuke from Lahore > > > 1. General information > I (Japanese tourists) can get Pakistan one month tourist visa for > free. But it is not always easy to get it. I got Pakistan visa at Sost > border point without any problem. The only road border open at Sost > (China) and Wagha(India) at this moment. (November 2008) It is > dangerous to cycle west part of Pakistan near Afghanistan. > > 2. Climate > Summer (May-September) will be nice season at northern Pakistan. > Winter time is nice season at south Pakistan. > > 3. Highlight > Karakorum and Himalaya mountain range at northern Pakistan. > > 4. Road and traffic > The road condition of GT road is good. But many traffics and so much > air pollutions there. Small roads are but road condition. Many police > check points are everywhere. Policemen are usually friendly for > foreigner. > > 5. Dangerous (be careful for...) > Traffic accidents...many bad drivers of car,truck, bus, motorcycle, Rickshaw... > Air pollutions. Dirty and spicy food. > Land slides, rock fallen, > > 6. Transportation for cyclists > It seems easy to put bicycle on the bus for small extra cost. > > 7. Accommodation > It is easy to find safe place to sleep. If it is no hotel in the > village, you can sleep at restaurant.(truck stops) > Islamabad: Foreigner Camping site 50Rs..It is center of capital city. > It is safe and quiet. > > 8. food > Many Pakistan food are spicy. > > 9. How to get drinking water > I could get free and safe drinking water from restaurant. > > 10. Money > It is easy to change local money from US dollar or Euro. ATM is available. > > 11 Internet > It cost about 0.3 US dollar (Internet at small villages are very slow > connection) > > 12. Cost > 1USdollar=80 Rs > cheap Hotel(dormitory):1.5 US dollar, Local food(bread,beans,milk > tea):1 US dollar, water 1.5 little:0.4 US dollar, > > > -- > just now...Lahore, Pakistan(119th country):138,022 km http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: Mechanic problem
> Dear cyclist, how are you? > I am traveling by bicycle in India alone right now...... > I was with Salva and Alvaro (2 Spanish cyclists) until 3 days ago. I > was with Alvaro yesterday. I was happy to cycle with them and not big > trouble at that time. But after I did alone, I got unhappy time. > Alvaro and I separated to different way yesterday afternoon. When I > climbed up small hill just 10 minutes we separated, my Chane of bike > broke. I do not have spare Chane. I pushed and walked up to next > village. I found bike repair shop. One old man was mechanic. He tried > to fix it. He did not have SHIMANO Chane and tried to fix with local > Indian peace of Chane. He did not use Chane cutter tool, just use > Hammer. My Chane was totally damaged. But finally, it seems fixed. > > I started cycle again. But just 100m cycled, my Chane makes strange > noise. I decided to go back village and take bus to next big town. > Hoshiapur is next big town only 32 km from the village. I put my > bicycle on the top of the bus. Suddenly bus driver try to start. I was > hustled to put my 7 luggage quickly to the bus. It was terrible travel > in this 32 km bus trip. The road was many curves and hills. Bus driver > drive very fast like coaster. I was so scare about my bike hat will > fell from the roof. But I was lucky, my bike and my all luggage and me > arrived Hoshiapur town without problem. > > I push my bike to bicycle shops. I visited bike shop to find SHIMANO > Chane one by one. I could not find Shimano Chane at all 5 bike shops. > At last I decided to buy Indian Chane. It cost 100 Rs = 2 US dollar. > The young mechanic guy fix new Chane to my bike. He also does not use > Chane cutter tool and he use just Hummer. When I left bike shop, just > only 50 m, my Chane broke again. I went back the shop again and they > gave me new Indian Chane... I can not cycle with this Chane.. > > I decided to go to Ludhiana city to buy Shimano Chane in this morning. > It is 80 km away. I took a but 2 and half hours to there. It is big > city more than one million populated. But I could not find Shimano > bicycle Chane at any bike shop... Ludhiana city is famous for Hero > bike factory. They make 20000 bicycle a day. I visited this factory > and asked to manager to get Shimano Chane. But they do not have it and > they gave me Indian Chane. I was disappointed and came back two hours > bus ride to Hoshiapur town. I will go to Delhi by bus to get Shimano > Chane....I am not happy in this moment. > > Take care, Daisuke > > -- > just now...Hoshiapur,(Punjab), India(120th country):138,408 km > http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: Mechanic problem 2 > Dear cyclist, > I received several e-mails about my Chane problem so quickly from my > good friends. Some of them mailed me so helpful that they can post me > Chane. Some of them check by Internet and they found Shimano shops in > Delhi. > I will take a bus about 400 km from here to Delhi. I hope I can get > Shimano Chane there tomorrow or after. > I am a bit worry to take Indian bus. I must take care about my bicycle > and 7 luggage and also about their terrible driving. I hope I can > reach Delhi without problem... > Best regards, > Daisuke > > -- > just now...Hoshiapur,(Punjab), India(120th country):138,408 km > http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: mechanic problem-3 > Dear cyclist, > I arrived Delhi yesterday. It was not so bad bus ride. It has 10 > minutes to put my bike and luggages before bus leave. I climbed up > quickly to the roof of bus and put my bike, and luggeges. Just I put > all my stuffs on the roof, bus driver started to move without say > nothing. I hate Indian bus drivers. Because they do not think anything > about customers and other traffics on the road. They make always very > big horns . ... > I visited 2 big bike market and several small bike shops today to buy > new chain. I visited more than 20 shops. But I could not find Shimano > chain at any shops. They have only shit Indian chains.... I was > disappointed. I do not know what I can do...I will rest a few days.... > > Well, I send you cycling story from my Spanish friend, Alvaro. > www.biciclown.com biciclown@biciclown.com I will see him again > probably at Nepal. > > Have a nice day! > Daisuke from Delhi, India km:138,444 www.daisukebike.be > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Biciclown Bulletin http://www.biciclown.com/ing/06/boletines/boletining.html > 1-12-2008 > > > November 2008 > Place Chandigarh (INDIA) (48 countries) > Travelling days 1,473 ( 5th year) > Km 55,485 > > Hello from the Indian subcontinent. > > This bulletin gives you visual surprises you can discover if you click > on the links offered. > > > Pakistan stories > > -A flagship woman > -Gobbing like mad > -The cook, the Babussar and Fortasec > > Indian stories > > -Golden hospitality > > > > Biciclown on the CNN-Video > > Including images of the last performance at a School of street kids in > Rawalpindi (Pakistan) > > Future plans > > Arriving in Katmandu on the 20th of December to welcome the great > Roberto who comes to fulfil a promise. A visit a year anywhere in the > Planet, wherever I am: Mali, Namibia, Ethiopia and Jordan have > witnessed the arrival of this friend who I met when I was studying at > the university of Pamplona. > > In Nepal I have contacted an NGO in charge of a School where I hope to > offer my 46 show. > > Do visit my Web because in December my new book, a book with > photographies taken in Africa, will see the light. There will even be > some 500 copies edited in English. > > Filmina is preparing a new documentary on the days I have spent in > Africa, it will be finished by Christmas and I hope it will be shown > on some television channels. > > Greetings from India, Namaste, Alvaro Neil the Biciclown. > > > > To contact Biciclown: e-mail: biciclown@biciclown.com SKYPE: biciclown > +88216 5016 0770 thuraya satelit phone > > Ceremony at the India-Pakistan borderSalva, Daisuke and Biciclown in > the fort of Lahore, Pakistan
Subject: mechanic problem-4 > Dear cyclist, > I received many warm e-mails from many friends. Thanks a lot. I could > find my solution. My Israel friend Mr. Ilan send me chain and tools > and some spare parts by DHL to my hotel in Delhi. I will wait to > receive it. I will go to sightseeing to Rajastan by bus tomorrow to 4 > days, then come back to Delhi. I will receive it next week. Several my > good friends ask me to send me chains to Delhi. I am so happy to > receive these warm messages. Thanks a lot!! > Best wishes, Daisuke > > ----------------------------------- > Wednesday, December 3, 2008 > Hey man !I have sent you the bicycle components this morning through > israel air mail.You are going to get it in maximum 4 days.keep in > touch !:Ilan Shaul Schwebel Nitzan Bike Store Jaffa street 137 > Jerusalem Israel PEACE AND LOVE !If you need information about > instoling the components on your bike you can get it on > www.youtube.com or feel free to call me or contuct me by email. Ilan > ------------------------------------ > > -- > just now...Delhi,India(120th country):138,418 km http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: mechanic problem-4 > Dear cyclist, > I received many warm e-mails from many friends. Thanks a lot. I could > find my solution. My Israel friend Mr. Ilan send me chain and tools > and some spare parts by DHL to my hotel in Delhi. I will wait to > receive it. I will go to sightseeing to Rajastan by bus tomorrow to 4 > days, then come back to Delhi. I will receive it next week. Several my > good friends ask me to send me chains to Delhi. I am so happy to > receive these warm messages. Thanks a lot!! > Best wishes, Daisuke > > ----------------------------------- > Wednesday, December 3, 2008 > Hey man !I have sent you the bicycle components this morning through > israel air mail.You are going to get it in maximum 4 days.keep in > touch !:Ilan Shaul Schwebel Nitzan Bike Store Jaffa street 137 > Jerusalem Israel PEACE AND LOVE !If you need information about > instoling the components on your bike you can get it on > www.youtube.com or feel free to call me or contuct me by email. Ilan > ------------------------------------ > > -- > just now...Delhi,India(120th country):138,418 km http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: mechanic problem 5 - repaired!!! > Dear cyclist, I repaired new chain. > I received right tool to remove the old kaset and chain, weelchain, > new 8 speed Kaset and krankset from Ilan Shaul who is my Israel > friend. He posted me by EMS. It takes only 4 days from Israel to my > Hotel in New Delhi. I fixed new Shimano weelchain today. My bike is > very well after that. Thanks a lot Ilan and also many my friends wrote > me advises. Ilan is bike mechanic in Jerusalem, Israel. When I was > there last year, he helped me very well to change some bike parts. He > also has many experiences of bicycle travel at different countries and > he knows very well about my situation. > > Ilan Shaul Schwebel ronis74@013.net > Nitzan Bike Store Jaffa street 137 Jerusalem Israel > > I will leave Delhi the day after tomorrow. > Best wishes, Daisuke > > -- > just now...Delhi,India(120th country):138,469 km http://www.daisukebike.be
Subject: Pamir Highway --- report from Salva Rodrigues > Dear cyclist, > I received e-mail about cycling report Pamir Highway, Central Asia > from Salva who is Spanish around the world cyclist.. It is very > popular place to cycle on the earth. I share his report to you. Enjoy > to read it! > Take care of you, Daisuke > > -- > just now...Delhi,India(120th country):138,418 km http://www.daisukebike.be > > ------------------------------- > From: salva rguez (salva2africa@yahoo.es) > > dear all, > > delicious food, beautiful scenery, clean air, comfortable > accomodation, and everything so cheap than even i can treat myself > here. i am in macleodganj, 10 kms uphill dharamsala, india. the very > wished rest has come true. but the way was not easy... > > after taskent i left my cyclist mates and went alone into kyrgyzstan, > i wanted to go to a remote area called chatkal valley. i was refused > at the closer border, so i took me almost 3 more days than i planned > to reach ala-buka (and almost a night jail with stupid juniors of the > army). > kyrgyzstan is a wonderful country for cyclists, i have met many, but > nobody there, almost no roads, often no bridges. few villages and > little food to buy but homemade bread. as it uses to be in this sort > of places, scenery is super, but i would say that it was the mix of > lonelyness-beauty what makes the wonder of the valley. little > development and lots of nature. > after that i turned eastwards. easy tarmac road to join the main road > osh-bishkek, but very soon the turn-off to song-kol is again a rough > road. > well, what can i say about this country? song-kol (a lake at 3000 m.), > issyk-kol, the glaciers road in the very east... it was a very very > good time, but exhausting. also the bicycle was damaged. i fixed it in > bishkek with the help of mr. anton, who is famous between long > distance cyclists. well, to be honest, i would not recommend him but > there was no option. his work was not good and he also did a bad job > with daisuke's bicycle some weeks later. > > to get a visa for tadjikistan is not easy here anymore: new consul. so > now, you need a LOI but still pamir permit is included in the 50$ visa > fee. > so with right papers i crossed the country to osh through the main > road which is very quiet and beautiful. there, in osh, i met a brave > cyclist who is trying to cross siberia in winter, mr. bastian > (bastiendemange@gmail.com), very nice guy, and a beautiful story. > i met mr. jan, a french cyclist travelling from singapour to france. > he asked me 'may i know you?', yes, i knew him as well... we met 14-16 > months ago in southafrica. he was backpacking and we had spoken. he > decided to do a trip by bicycle then! and.... more than a year later, > we met again in osh! incredible, i have become a man with a mission: > to spread cyclotourism! > > anyway, i left kyrgyzstan towards pamir. 2 more rough passes before > the order and a view of a lifetime: sarytash meadows. you just see > from east to west, in front of your tent, a huge white range with some > 6000 m peaks and the lenina peak (7000). really great. > the tayik border is after the pass, but still over 4000 m., and first > they gave me tea, biscuits and jam. when i recovered myself from the > effort, coldness and altitude, they asked me for the passport. very > good people. > > pamir was great, you know, this is one of the top ten places for > cyclists. but not so late. early october was very very cold. the wind > freezes you and somedays i could not cycle because of the storms. > still, the place is amazing. it remained me western tibet with these > huge glacier valleys. > i left the highway (which is mostly paved) to the wakhan valley. > people said also the highway is beautiful, i do not know. what i can > say is that whakhan has extremely bad road but is stunning. the views > of hindukush (7000), and all the snowed peaks, make you smile even if > you are breathless pushing through the stones or sand. there was > little food but homemade meals. but, if the weather is bad and no > views, i would suggest to take the highway road, you know, suffering > for nothing... > > i was lucky, the bad weather started when i arrived in khorog, end of > the valley. > from here, the road follows the amudarya canyon, between > afghanistan-tadjikistan, and it is also spectacular, sometimes very > rough and risky because slides. > when i jumped into the lowlands... well, end of the views but a relief > for my muscles. i was very tired. > > then i crossed to afghanistan, as you know because the last email. > just tell that finally my bicycle crossed with an afghan refugee, > thanks to mrs. hilde, and i flew with the red cross. so, my bicycle > and i met again in a photocopy shop at peshawar (hilde, my dear, i > still can believe it sometimes. it was very risky, but it worked... > you are great!). > i left peshawar the day some talibans killed a US worker in.. the same > street than red cross left me... > happy to leave such a funny area, i went to islamabad where the party > was waiting. i met daisuke there for the third time (addis abeba, > isphahan), www.daisukebike.be, and alvaro, for the second time (tehran > to taskent), www.biciclown.com. > > we have been cycling toguether until here, dharamsala, sharing jokes, > stories, plans for future, information, tips, and sometimes... even > the bed! it has been a big honour for me to be able to learn humanity > from the big japanese, but i was not successful in my attempt to teach > spanish sense of humour to daisuke! we have to cycle one more time > again, my friend, laddak next summer! > > and well, pakistan is not my favourite country. it is too polluted and > crowdy, but punjab in india was not better. even noisier. but at > least, you can see the half of the planet again: women! > then, straight to the mountains, which has little less traffic and > pollution. the rest is making me feel better slowly slowly and i have > a plan for next year. > despite the traffic and the indians, i will cycle down and up the > country, cross to nepal, and back to india in summer for cycling in > laddak. after monzoon, 2 months of trekking in nepal, and later i will > look for the chance to get a boat to thailand or malaysia from > calcutta. i know there are little posibilities but, hey, after the > mess leaving afghanistan, everything can be possible! > > well, some points about central asia mountains: > - kyrgyzstan was ok even september, most passes over 3000 m, it snows > from time to time but little, lower temperature -1 inside the tent. > - i strongly recommend chatkal valley (west) and the 'road' barskoon > pass (4000) to narym. is very off road or not a road at all. both > places you have to carry food for 4-5 days > - most cyclists go around issy-kol (east) and song-kol (center). very > beautiful sceneries and no problems with food or roads. > - roads...everything from nice tarmac to very light track on the > surface. up to you. russian maps are excellent. > - people... i did not like them too much. the men were always drunk. > the nomads are friendly but not as the mongolian or tibetans. > - about pamir, i would say october is not a good month but people said > bad weather can happen in july too. lower temperature -6 inside the > tent. mostly pamir over 4000 m. > - you have to carry food as much as you can (specially if you take > wakhan valley) and eat with locals when you have the chance in order > to save your own food. > - khorog and murghab are the two places to buy food, enough but basic supplies. > - water can be a problem in pamir highway. where there is a point > water, fill up all bottles. > - people in pamir and whakhan is excellent, very friendly and helpful. > > well, my friends, i hope you enjoy the next couple of weeks, merry > xmas and happy new year to all, i wish you a year full of good times. > with love, > salva
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